Hi all demisting/fogging, how to. Front screen, manual not that clear, just says press button. Tried the heater button but does not clear. Crack open window ok but if chucking it down gets a bit damp. Never had this prob in other cars I’ve owned. Feel a bit foolish asking but needs must.
Demisting
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same issue here for defogging both front and rear.
Looks to me the car gets fogged a lot compared to other cars (no idea why?) - just leave it 30 mins parked and all windows will be completely fogged.
Also worth mentioning:
What I have found out so far:
Seen also there are some sprays you can buy to "treat" the inside surface of windows: anyone has ever tried those? Do they work at all?
Looks to me the car gets fogged a lot compared to other cars (no idea why?) - just leave it 30 mins parked and all windows will be completely fogged.
Also worth mentioning:
- the front windscreen air vents are a bit rubbish. To leave space for the HUD they put only 1 vent in the middle - and it struggles to reach the sides of the windscreen
- ICE cars use the heat of the engine to warm the air for the vents. On EV this is a big issue as no heat is produced. Most use electric heaters (that tend to smell - like our MX-30) - some others tried the heat pump solution (kia EV6) which is more expensive but should perform better and be more efficient
- as heating is electric you will see your range going down of 20% at least by turning on the heating
What I have found out so far:
- rear defogger - mine was not working at all. Tried to deflag the "auto turn off" function in car settings menu and works better. My educated guess is that even if the light on the rear defog button is always on - if the auto turn off function is on - the thing will cycle on/off making it much slower (I might be completely wrong)
- front window - still struggling to get that right: if you press the button goes to max speed and even with temp set to 17.5 the car turns into a sauna before the windscreen is cleared. Opening the side window is so far the solution (a bit 80s I know!) - also cannot find a way to keep the dynamic air coming into the car to the windscreen (as soon as you turn off the vent - if goes to windscreen+feet automatically). Yes A/C on and ECO and Recycle OFF help, but still we are miles away from acceptable. Also I tend to switch off the heating ASAP - as kills the range, so after some time we are back to square one. Any help here?
Seen also there are some sprays you can buy to "treat" the inside surface of windows: anyone has ever tried those? Do they work at all?
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Birillo_79, the MX30 has a heating pump. This should warm up the battery and cabin efficiently. It is not a electric heating element. If you have the car plugged in manually charging and you preheat the car remotely it will draw power from the ev battery when the battery drops below set level but the charger should provide a trickle charge. It doesn't match the draw though. I don't know why mazda didn't design preheat to draw from the charger when plugged in but we are where we are. I have not taken a 20% hit yet on range.
I have my heating on manual a/c with eco off, as eco can screw effectiveness as you know. No seat or steering wheel heating. Both front and rear defrost and demist fine in my own experience but the front mists up again quickly if people breath. I just press the demist button accordingly. I ask people to not breath in the car and have had a few fatalities but hey ho the screen stays clear
My previous cx5's were not much better to be honest. So not perfect but I can live with it....unlike some of my passengers!
Since I had my door rattle "fixed" my passenger side mists up more than the drivers side. Keeping an eye on that!
As you say its a bit suck it and see to get it just the way you want it. I did consider the screen spray but a car detailer told me not to bother so never got round to trying it.
P.s I do keep one of those small pouch car dehumidifiers in the car as a preventative measure.
Alan
I have my heating on manual a/c with eco off, as eco can screw effectiveness as you know. No seat or steering wheel heating. Both front and rear defrost and demist fine in my own experience but the front mists up again quickly if people breath. I just press the demist button accordingly. I ask people to not breath in the car and have had a few fatalities but hey ho the screen stays clear
My previous cx5's were not much better to be honest. So not perfect but I can live with it....unlike some of my passengers!Since I had my door rattle "fixed" my passenger side mists up more than the drivers side. Keeping an eye on that!
As you say its a bit suck it and see to get it just the way you want it. I did consider the screen spray but a car detailer told me not to bother so never got round to trying it.
P.s I do keep one of those small pouch car dehumidifiers in the car as a preventative measure.
Alan
ill try not to breath then - thanks for the tip
interesting the heating pump thing. I was not aware of this as I heard that only kia EV6 was using this "futuristic" solution (not even the Hyundai ioniq 5). I am more than surprised to know it is in our little ones too!
I will keep trying to keep windows clear, but compared to other cars this looks to me like a major issue so far (maybe it is a seasonal pain - but the mini never had this at all)
Reg range I think all of us have the same - try to have the heater/conditioner fully off (button top left of the screen) and then turn it on. The range gets cut of 20% - based on the assumption you will use the rest of the charge available keeping it on. As soon as you turn it off - the 20% is back on your display. Given this I think our air conditioning system might not be the most efficient available out there, despite the heat pump (no idea on other EVs but I know the heating kills the range quite dramatically). on the other hand you do not need to keep the temperature too high as the thing defo knows how to heat up the cabin
interesting the heating pump thing. I was not aware of this as I heard that only kia EV6 was using this "futuristic" solution (not even the Hyundai ioniq 5). I am more than surprised to know it is in our little ones too!
I will keep trying to keep windows clear, but compared to other cars this looks to me like a major issue so far (maybe it is a seasonal pain - but the mini never had this at all)
Reg range I think all of us have the same - try to have the heater/conditioner fully off (button top left of the screen) and then turn it on. The range gets cut of 20% - based on the assumption you will use the rest of the charge available keeping it on. As soon as you turn it off - the 20% is back on your display. Given this I think our air conditioning system might not be the most efficient available out there, despite the heat pump (no idea on other EVs but I know the heating kills the range quite dramatically). on the other hand you do not need to keep the temperature too high as the thing defo knows how to heat up the cabin
A Heat Pump is just an air-conditioning unit which can run backwards (it's slightly more complex than a normal AC as the device needs to be able to pump the working fluid both ways through the system, but the operation is identical), since all cars have an AC unit it makes sense to use a heat pump instead.
ICE cars obviously don't need to use a Heat Pump since they have plenty of waste heat that can be used for heating the cabin, which is why automotive heat pumps are only now becoming common.
yep it works same as the A/C at home when you use it for heating. But surprisingly this is not a common execution in the EV world (at least from what I found in multiple comparative tests) - testa just recently adopted them.
heat pump
The Model Y was the first Tesla vehicle to come equipped with a heat pump. Before that, all the other three cars - the Model 3, the Model S, and the Model X featured an electric resistance heating system. But, after first plonking them in the Model Y, Tesla has started equipping heat pumps on all its cars.
heat pump
The Model Y was the first Tesla vehicle to come equipped with a heat pump. Before that, all the other three cars - the Model 3, the Model S, and the Model X featured an electric resistance heating system. But, after first plonking them in the Model Y, Tesla has started equipping heat pumps on all its cars.
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I think Mazda had no option but to fit a heat pump on a car with just 30kWhr usable battery. A resistive load of 1.5 to 2.0kW would have been the coup de grace for winter range. Tesla was surprisingly slow in moving from resistive heating. Presumably it didn't want the cost of a heat pump system but is going there as its range advantage vs competitors diminishes. Most others have it as an option on most models but it isn't cheap. The VW group wants over £1000 for the heat pump option on its iD4 and Enyaq.
Hi all, the old issue of fogging up etc. I followed Alan’s (Thebriggie) advice & it worked to some extent but once you for example put the system to warm the footwell you have to watch for fogging up. It seems, in my case to creep up & all of a sudden your fogged up. In my case I don’t seem to get much warmth to the footwell, anyone else have this problem. I’ve also had the software check & didn’t notice any difference in range. The range I feel will drop in winter moths just as mpg does on a petrol/diesel vehicle. Still on granny cable & am ok but my 7kw charge system will be sorted in a couple of weeks which will be a lot better. I reckon on the granny charger it takes approx 1 hour to charge 6%, maybe somebody out there will tell me different. Oh also what exactly does the auxiliary battery actually do. More questions coming later. Looking forward to replies.
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By auxiliary do you mean 12v? If so it controls loads of stuff and the car would be a well designed brick without it. It operates the various relays to enable charging, starting for example and also 12v ancillaries such as mazda connect etc, etc. Basically old style 12v components fitted to a ev car. It charges via a dc to dc converter from the ev batteries when the car is started.
If you didn't mean 12v then I have just typed aimlessly
10a mennekes cable should be around 2.3kwh give or take for some loss so you are not far off with 6%. I reckon about 7% all being equal is achievable. Still awaiting my wall box and hopefully the technician will configure it to give me around the 6.6 kwh the car ac/dc convertor can handle!
Mennekes data sheet
Technical data
Charging Cable Mode 2 Type 2 10A 8m VDE 35204100067
Connector on vehicle side type 2
Connector on infrastructure side type G
Charging mode Mode 2 (IEC 61851-1)
Standard connector on vehicle end IEC 62196-2
Standard connector on infrastructure end BS 1363
Rated voltage U N [V] AC ± 10% 230
Rated frequency f N [Hz] 50
Rated current InA [A] 10
Max. charging power[kW] 2.3
Connection 1-phase
Residual Current Device
Type A (I ΔN = 30 mA) + DC (I ΔNDC = 6 mA)
bipolar 1P+N
Charging module IP rating IP69k
Plug / connector IP rating IP44
Cable type H07BZ5-F
Infrastructure cable length [cm] 30
Total cable length [cm] 800
Cable cross-section [mm²] 3 G 2.5
Cable diameter [mm] 10
Weight [g] 2790
Standard IEC 61851, DIN EN 62752
The specific standards according to which the product was tested can be found in the declaration of conformity for the produc
Alan
If you didn't mean 12v then I have just typed aimlessly
10a mennekes cable should be around 2.3kwh give or take for some loss so you are not far off with 6%. I reckon about 7% all being equal is achievable. Still awaiting my wall box and hopefully the technician will configure it to give me around the 6.6 kwh the car ac/dc convertor can handle!
Mennekes data sheet
Technical data
Charging Cable Mode 2 Type 2 10A 8m VDE 35204100067
Connector on vehicle side type 2
Connector on infrastructure side type G
Charging mode Mode 2 (IEC 61851-1)
Standard connector on vehicle end IEC 62196-2
Standard connector on infrastructure end BS 1363
Rated voltage U N [V] AC ± 10% 230
Rated frequency f N [Hz] 50
Rated current InA [A] 10
Max. charging power[kW] 2.3
Connection 1-phase
Residual Current Device
Type A (I ΔN = 30 mA) + DC (I ΔNDC = 6 mA)
bipolar 1P+N
Charging module IP rating IP69k
Plug / connector IP rating IP44
Cable type H07BZ5-F
Infrastructure cable length [cm] 30
Total cable length [cm] 800
Cable cross-section [mm²] 3 G 2.5
Cable diameter [mm] 10
Weight [g] 2790
Standard IEC 61851, DIN EN 62752
The specific standards according to which the product was tested can be found in the declaration of conformity for the produc
Alan
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789 Posts
Milkfloat, official output from mennekes is max 2.3kw. I have to assume that is a measured output based on an ideal scenario. 12% loss seems excessive so did they design that loss in or are they allowing for variables? I have to assume variables because who in their right mind would design in that loss without publishing it!
My calc was based on the published max. Unless we do a measured output or some car reading based calculation how do we really know what we are actually getting!
It a strange old world when it comes to charging variables...
Alan
My calc was based on the published max. Unless we do a measured output or some car reading based calculation how do we really know what we are actually getting!
It a strange old world when it comes to charging variables...
Alan
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184 Posts
The loss is "total loss". That is, for each kW that you pay for, 88% is held in the battery after charging. I can only estimate how much is lost in each bit of the process but it includes the charger that gets warm, resistive loss in the cables, powering the coolant pump that runs throughout the charge process, the AC/DC charge controller (that also gets quite warm) and finally the thermodynamic losses actually charging the battery. Behind the motor block, there is a short section of the coolant feed and return piping run in metal. After charging for an hour or so at 6.6kW charge rate, feel the 2 pipes. The return from the batteries is really quiet warm, even in winter when heat is leaking out all over the battery structure at a significant rate. With the Granny Charger, you can feel that the temperature is above ambient but as the battery system and structure is only dissipating less than 200 Watts, the pipes are only a few degrees up on ambient but over many hours of course. On the Internet, you will see lots of different loss percentage estimates for EV's so what is the right number? By technical evaluation of the process and my measurements I get 12% but my brother (also with a Mazda) reckons I am slightly low.
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184 Posts
But Alan, you are right, it's a strange old world and we are getting to grips with a new technology after ICE has dominated for so long. With EV we have much less loss than with ICE overall but we lose it in different places. With ICE, we take on fuel at almost zero loss and throw more than 50% of the energy away using it. With EV, we take a chunk of our smaller loss loading up but throw much less away as we use it.
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789 Posts
Wow you guys are sure into the EV adventure. So my calc was more or less correct 6% an hour. I started topping up my battery from 48% & I calculated roughly 5 .5 hrs to get to 80%, just been out to check at around 5 hrs & its saying 78% so very near. Next question what does the eco button actually do? I remember Alan saying to switch off eco when defogging & just wondered what it is for. Once you learn about these things you begin to realise just how much tech is in these vehicles & the more you learn the more you can squeeze out of that big battery. Oh Alan yes I was asking about the little 12v batt so I now know I was on the right lines. Thanks fellas.
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789 Posts
Paul, as per mx30 user manual. It just turns it down a bit but it sounds good ECO...the same as Turbo used to be
▼ ECO Icon
ECO mode switches on/off each time
the icon is touched.
The operation frequency of the air
conditioner in ECO mode is less than
in normal mode, making driving more
economical.
Alan
▼ ECO Icon
ECO mode switches on/off each time
the icon is touched.
The operation frequency of the air
conditioner in ECO mode is less than
in normal mode, making driving more
economical.
Alan
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184 Posts
ECO makes a minimal saving but leads to some of the issues on this thread. Put the system on manual, AC on and flow direction as needed. Put blower on 1 or 2 as needed (1 above 8C and 2 below 8C). If you want to save energy, turn the temperature down a bit rather than messing about with ECO. Like most Mazdas, 19C seems to equal about 22C in all other cars. So, try 15C or 16C to save power.
Correct about the temperature. 17c are more than enough to grow a palm on the backseats! Reg demisting kind of works for me with ac on eco off fan 6 windscreen vents only at 17c. Rear defogger still takes ages but removing the auto off helped a lot. Range is clearly affected by having the vent on. But the reduction is calculated as 20% removed on whole range IF you are going to do the whole journey like that. It is a bit of an heart attack everytime but it forces you to turn off the fan as soon as you are done (if you bother)
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