I second Vivamazda's view. When I picked up the car brand new, it forecast 167km for 99% charge. Now, based on the computational algorithm, (which in my opinion incudes a baseline calculation heavily modified by one's short term driving) it typically shows 200km for 90% charge. (I only charge to 100% if I absolutely have to. Interestingly, the car prevents regeneration at 100% charge and then progressively allows more regen as stored energy is used and full regeneration only resumes at 90%. That's how I decided to charge to 90% normally). I thought that I had driven carefully for the first 20km driving home and the read-out showed 15.1kw/100km. (4.1 miles/kW is much easier!). Now, I feel that I am actually driving more quickly but find 13.8 and better quite normal. Key is only to use the acceleration that you need; limit to 3 units on the power meter and keep maximum speed to 65 mph (104k). Then smooth driving and anticipation show more benefit than a combustion engine car. I think this is because the vast majority of ICE cars have no freewheel and therefore always waste energy on the overrun. For the very best range, use minimum regeneration setting and freewheel: there is much more very slight downhill gradient than you ever realised! Slow down via anticipation, regeneration and mechanical brake only when you have to. It is amazing what efficiency one can actually get and it is rewarding and quite fun. I find air-con in our summer climate has a fairly small effect (20.5C setpoint) and is swamped by the variable of driving style. However, heating on a frosty day is a big power user so that needs a lot of care if you want range. Finally, do make sure that tyre pressures are set correctly including increasing them for a fully loaded car (only for long range). Though rarely mentioned, pressure setting is at 20C and P*V/T in cold weather.